Harbour Island to Spanish Wells to Hope Town

The day before we traversed back through the Devil's Backbone we spent checking out the beach and sandbar at the far end of Man Island. It was a huge treat for the dogs (and us!) and afterward Cappy had a much needed bath upon our return to the boat. Another Mexican Train game night aboard Toucana, then to bed. 

At 10:00 the following morning we left the anchorage and headed back to Spanish Wells where we each took a slip at the Spanish Wells Yacht Harbour. We rented a golf cart for the next day so we could gather up some groceries and tour the island. We had lunch at one of our favorite waterfront restaurants, the Sandbar which has always been fun and tasty. Jeff and I had stone crabs for dinner which were purchased at the local seafood shop and then once again we played games on Rhumbline. We had to get as many evenings together in since  we would be parting ways with Jack & Carol (Toucana) the next morning. They would be heading south to the Exumas and Sharon & Dan (Rhumbline) and Jeff & I would be heading north to the Abacos. 

The following pics are some sights along the way in Spanish Wells. The tide was way out while we were having dinner at the Shipyard. I know you're thinking all we do is eat, but it's definitely an "event" over here in the Bahamas where we can get the best cracked conch, fritters and Kalik.

See the fisherman?

Lunch at the Sandbar

Carol & Sharon trying out the hammock

At 7:40 on Thursday morning, we said our goodbyes and set our sights on Little Harbour.  Unfortunately, there was only one mooring ball available so we  made the easy trip to Lynyard Cay to anchor for the night. We never got in to the harbour to visit Pete's Pub, The Gallery or the beach. But we were treated to a beautiful sunset anchored in Lynyard Cay.

A rainbow in front of us while leaving Spanish Wells

Rhumbline anchored in Lynyard Cay

Sunset in Lynyard Cay

Since the weather was predicted to become quite windy we thought it best to motor up to Hope Town to wait it out. It rained most of the trip. Secure on Truman's mooring balls, we settled in for what turned out to be 9 DAYS due to the high winds and the need for calm seas in order to cross THE WHALE to make our way to Green Turtle Cay. The protected side of Whale Cay is very shallow so everyone has to go around on the ocean side making it an absolute necessity for relatively calm seas. During our time in Hope Town we saw up close & personal the devastation from Hurricane Dorian and the progress since then. There are only a few restaurants open and some favorite places were totally gone. Some are rebuilding, some are not. It's been slow going and the pandemic certainly hasn't helped. Supplies are hard to come by even though Hope Town has received much support from the US and other countries. Samaritans Purse has been instrumental in assisting where they can. Friends we have come to know in Hope Town are glad to see all the boats back in the harbour. It was so empty for so long. Some shared their stories of enduring the storm here on the island, a terrifying experience. We walked to On Da Beach for lunch that day and enjoyed their famous Fish Melt (something Jeff pines for all year) and other yummy things.

There used to be a cute house on the spit of land at the entrance to Hope Town

The dock where Jeff and I were married is gone

Some Donnie ferry boats are up and running although most were lost in Dorian with no insurance 

On Da Beach

Sharon and Julie having a little fun learning some new dance moves

We celebrated my birthday at Firefly for lunch and enjoyed good food, good friendship and great views. Our friends Matt & Julie offered to take their center console there, so we piled in and off we went. 

On Tuesday we began our trek to the Abaco Inn for lunch (another restaurant that was up & running) and fortunately were given a ride by some locals since it's about a 3 mile hike up and 3 miles back. The people of Hope Town have always been so nice - one of the reasons we return over and over. We had tried to rent a golf cart but there were none available. 

Lunch at the Abaco Inn

The next morning Jeff went to the lighthouse to help with some repair work (as usual) while I stayed aboard and gave Cappy a bath & blowdry. He was one happy puppy since the salt water even though rinsed off, makes him itchy. He had a huge smile when his "Mom's salon appointment" was over.  We ate dinner at Matt & Julie's villa at the Hope Town Inn & Marina that night, a pot luck sort of meal. I made Jambalaya, Sharon made a salad and Julie made the appetizer and dessert. Since it was blowing 30k it was nice to be onshore, although it was a bumpy ride back to the boat after we played some Mexican train! The dogs (Cappy, Gus & Penny) joined us and were quite content hanging out together. 

Goodnight Hope Town

On Thursday morning it was still blowing (what else is new?) so Jeff went back to the lighthouse to work a little more while Cappy and I hung out on the boat. It's nice having a buddy... and the rebuilding continues...

One last night in Hopetown and the six of us contributed various goodies for our grill out at Matt & Julie's Hope Town Inn villa and finish our game of Mexican Train which we began several days earlier. Appetizers, cheeseburgers, potato salad, baked beans and more. We always have mixed emotions when leaving Hope Town - goodbyes to friends are hard yet moving on to the next out-island (Great Guana Cay in our case) is always fun.  A water tank fill up first, and we'll be on our way.

Sharon with Cappy, Penny and Gus

See you next time Matt and Julie!