Exumas, Abacos and Friends

Time flies when you're having fun! That and lack of a strong wifi connection and WHAM, it's been three months without a post. In mid February we sailed to Shroud Cay from Cape Eleuthera, settled on a mooring and took the dinghy through the incredible creek there. In one end, and out the other with a stop to climb the path to Camp Driftwood at the top of the hill. What a view! 360 degrees of absolute beauty. In the creek we’d pass turtles, rays and fish. It’s so incredible to be able to see them through the crystal clear water, one of the many reasons we love the Bahamas so much.

Shroud Cay

Ray on the bottom

Three turtles swimming by

Another ray

Outgoing tidal rip where the creek meets the Exuma Sound

View from Camp Driftwood

The creeks from Camp Driftwood

More creeks

Here's a panoramic of Shroud Cay from "Camp Driftwood"

From Shroud Cay we sailed to Norman’s Cay and once again had lunch at McDuff’s where everything on the menu is $25, but worth the experience. There is nowhere else to eat aside from the galley on your boat… 

After wading on the sandbar there and collecting too many sand dollars and shells, we pulled anchor and headed for Highborne Cay, always a fun place to stay. We spent three nights there in a comfortable slip and met a few new friends. As is typical there, we saw many mega yachts come in and out. One night while we were enjoying dinner at the marina restaurant, a tender to one of the large yachts had broken loose and apparently was headed right for our boat. Thankfully, our slip neighbors jumped aboard EXILE and into our raised dinghy to fend the adrift boat off. The davits now are certified to hold at least 500 pounds. What a test!

Starfish on the bottom of the crystal clear water

The lone heron

Looking for dinner

Nurse shark hanging out under EXILE at Highborne Cay

Hawks Bill Cay was our next destination on our way to Warderick Wells in the Exuma Land and Sea National Park. We enjoyed cocktails, snacks and great conversation aboard Lady A with other sailors before returning to EXILE.

Hawksbill Cay

Chess anyone?

The next day we reached Warderick Wells around 1:00 and since it was a Saturday, there was a scheduled pot luck on the beach. We met several couples, shared stories and retreated to the boat for the evening. One night there and we were off the next morning to Big Major where we anchored after lunch onboard. This is where the ‘famous’ swimming pigs are located. Naturally we would take them food and lots of water. Apparently 9 pigs died the week before because they may have been accidentally poisoned. They needed lots of water so we made several trips back to the boat to fill gallon jugs to give the pigs. It’s become such a “tourist destination” that the pigs barely swim out to the boats anymore. They have become used to people coming onshore to feed them and I believe this may have had something to do with the most recent loss.

Weekly cocktail party on the beach (crowded parking lot!)

We met lots of fellow cruisers

Yet, another ray

Two days anchored in Big Majors (near Staniel Cay) allowed us to pick up a few provisions at one of the two island grocery stores. Additionally, we picked up the last loaf of Bahamian bread baked by a local woman on the island. I LOVE bread, and this is the absolute best. A freshly baked handmade loaf is so good! We spent two nights anchored in Big Major and brought food and water to the pigs each day. 

There are lots of yachts in the Exumas, but this one is the queen of the fleet. Google "Yacht Cloud Break"

Front yard tiki bar

Heading over for a bite to eat

Jeff, giving one of the pigs a drink of water

Check out those ears!

Baby wants water too

More please?

The following morning we were headed for Compass Cay Marina to hide from some expected windy weather for three days. This marina is small and has been run by Tucker Rolle for many years. The grounds of Compass Cay are very well kept and include paths to wander around the island. We walked to the opposite side and explored the beach and when the anticipated rain fell, we ducked under some foliage until it passed. The marina itself is like an aquarium and is home to many varieties of fish as well as nurse sharks. Although I only fed the sharks from the low dock (they swam up and opened their mouths just like the pigs on Big Majors) I was able to “pet” them. Some young visitors had no difficulty jumping in the water for a photo op.

Swimming with the nurse sharks

I made a new EXILE sign to replace the one that had come down in a hurricane and hope that it remains there for a little while. After hanging it, we left the slip and headed to Cambridge Cay, part of the Exumas National Land and Sea Park. All the moorings there were occupied, so we anchored just off of Bell Island, nearby. As it turned out it was a great anchorage and there were quite a large number of boaters who thought so too. We explored the area by dinghy as we have in previous years, and as usual it never disappoints. 

These will work for a sailboat on our sign

The finished product

Hester's house ruins

"Rachael's Bubble Bath"

Hester's from afar

Beach art at Cambridge Cay

Highborne Cay was our next stop and we anchored outside the marina in order to use our grill. We enjoyed steaks onboard and stars overhead. The next afternoon, we took a slip in the marina and stayed for several days. There are quite a number of beautiful beaches to enjoy there so no matter which way the wind is blowing we can find a quiet place to chill. We met new friends there and planned to meet up in a month or so in the Abacos. Knowing that, we exchanged some movies to occupy our evenings. 

One of the paths to the beach

A lone hummingbird

Me, scaling the rocks for driftwood to make more signs!

Hammock at the "fitness center"

Plenty of room for both of us

View from the fitness center

Another angle

The forecast was predicting wind, wind and more wind so we made a reservation in New Providence at the Palm Cay Marina and wound up staying for a week until the 20-25 kt winds subsided. We rented a car and ran some errands in Nassau and ate our usual lunch at Margaritaville. A few days later, Jeff had a hankering for fried chicken and set his sights for, you guessed it…. his favorite place, Popeyes. Yes, they have a Popeyes in Nassau. It took him almost an hour to find it, but he was indeed a happy man.

Once the wind subsided, we were able to set sail to the Royal Island Anchorage at the Northwest tip of Eleuthera for the evening. This is a usual stopping place on our way from the Exumas to Abaco. In the morning we went offshore to do some fishing on the way to Harbour Island but had no luck. Although, when we went to check out what Jeff thought was a buoy adrift the line we had out became tangled and while we were taking care of that there were three mahi checking it out just off our stern. If I’d had a net, I could have scooped them up! The next morning we checked into the Romora Bay Yacht Club and said hello again to the friendly dockhands. This is where we watched the Super Bowl when we first arrived this year.

A Spanish Wells lobster boat towing three catch boats

The pink sand beaches of Harbour Island, Eleuthera

Sunset at Romora Bay

Late night visitor

We had a long day ahead of us and although it was rolling a bit, we crossed to Little Harbor in the Abacos, a 9 hour motor sail. We set the anchor off of Lynyard Cay to await the high tide the following day in order to get into Little Harbour, where we took a mooring for 3 nights. We visited with friends, walked the beaches and enjoyed the great fish and conch at Pete’s Pub. 

A seaplane is circling

and landing...

and leaving

A little chilly... fleece, bathing suit and bare feet

A beautiful evening

On the 16^th of March, we sailed to Hope Town only to find that all of the moorings were occupied. Boy, was it busy there! We continued on to Marsh Harbour to await our friends (Kevin and Kendra) arrival two days later. As usual, when in Marsh Harbour, we walked to Maxwells, the local grocery store to stock up for the next week. Once they flew in we enjoyed lunch at Curly Tails and Steak Night at the Jib Room. Kendra learned how to “rake & scrape” and we watched a local limbo pro do his thing.

Relaxing, on their first night here

Kendra, learning to "rake 'n scrape"

Collecting treasures

We all slept well that night and headed off to Little Harbour in the morning, the beginning of the visitor “tour”. We beach-combed, got wet, found lots of shells and some seaglass, then enjoyed a great fish dinner at Pete’s.

The usual route included the Tilloo Sandbar, Tahiti Beach and Great Guana where Nippers and Grabbers are located. Much to our surprise, we ran smack dab into Pat and Ron Gross (friends from Maine) sitting in a golf cart looking out towards the harbor. We enjoyed a fun time together at Nippers and the beach there, then relaxed at Grabbers before saying our good-byes. They were leaving for Maine in the next day or two. 

Tilloo Sandbank

Kevin sewed the hammock back together 

Kevin, Kendra, Ron, Pat and Jeff

A beautiful sunset at Grabber's

The next morning we left Guana Cay and sailed to Hope Town and enjoyed lunch at the Hope Town Inn and Marina. We went to the beaches in Hope Town and took Kevin and Kendra to our favorite places to eat including On Da Beach, Firefly and Harbour’s Edge. Naturally, we climbed the lighthouse and visited the gift shop. What a quick visit! They left on the 26^th of March and we had a day to prepare the aft berth for our next visitors from Maine, Blaine and Sharon. We enjoyed the same circuit with them and at the end of their stay, Sharon and I spent most of the time in the pool at the marina. Very refreshing! We waved goodbye to them as they departed Hope Town on the Donny (Albury’s ferry) to catch their flight from Marsh Harbour to Miami. For the next three weeks Jeff spent some time working in the lighthouse and I worked in the gift shop selling items to help with funding for lighthouse restoration.

Elbow Reef Lighthouse

Headed home

One of the locals

Sharon and Blaine

Jeff

Photo op for a visiting biologist

Sharon found a "legal" one and we let him go

Natural habitat

Hope Town Inn and Marina pool

The marina

Headed to Marsh Harbour to catch their plane home

Jeff and I sailed to Bonefish Cay to donate dog food to the local Potcake rescue operation, run by Angie and Steve. By coincidence, they rescued six puppies that morning and we were able to see them that afternoon. (Thanks Jean, for the Christmas contribution)

Steve and Angie taking food to the pups on "Puppy Island"

Scared little puppies

First human touch

Feeding them a mixture of goat's milk, moist food and vitamins

 Watch the pups two days after rescue here. What a difference!

Oh the colors!

We will soon be departing the Abacos and heading back to St. Augustine, where we will visit with family and friends, doctors and dentists and most necessary…. my hairdresser.  I haven’t had my hair cut in months, and BOY, am I in need.

But before that, we have one more visitor…