Rock Sound to Harbour Island

After we left Cape Eleuthera on the 7th of April, we traveled for three hours to Rock Sound, and anchored for the next two nights. There is a well stocked grocery store there for provisioning, which after 5 days in Cape Eleuthera and limited supplies in their marina store, our meat and fresh produce was running low. We tied up at Wild Orchid's (relatively new restaurant) dock and walked to the store, got a ride back to the dock from one of the store employees, dinghied our groceries back to the boat, then returned for a great lunch there. The photo below was our view from the table with EXILE anchored beyond.

On Thursday, April 9th we left Rock Sound at 9:20 and arrived in Hatchet Bay around 4pm. We had never been here before and decided to do a little exploring. The cut is easy to see on the chart but to the naked eye appears to be non-existent unless you're right on top of it! Once inside, this is a very protected harbour. We lowered the dinghy the next morning and after walking around most of the island we putted around the perimeter. The town was apparently once nicely kept based on the homes we saw that weren't boarded up or simply abandoned. It was a little depressing to see so many homes in disrepair. The people of the island were friendly, as are most here in the islands. 

Hatchet Bay "everything" store

One of the nicer streets

Health clinic 

Local pub

"Upscale" pub with view of the bay

Exploring the interior of Hatchet Bay

We had stopped at Royal Island on our southbound voyage and found it to be a peaceful place to wait for a weather window to cross to Spanish Wells so that was to be our destination on Friday. We left Hatchet Bay around 11:00 and enjoyed a downwind jib sail to Current Cut at mid-tide taking the straight route in. We had 4 knots of current sweeping us through the cut, hence it's name. We arrived at Royal Island at 4:50 and had lots of company... 1 trawler and 10 sailboats. We enjoyed a leisurely morning and watched many of the boats exit the anchorage to the north. At 9:50 we were the last to depart and had an easy jib sail close hauled to Spanish Wells. There are 5 or 6 mooring balls available here and we chose one of them near two other sailboats. They are maintained by one of the harbour pilots called Bandit. We had arrived at 11:30 so decided to head to shore for lunch. The restaurant shown below called the Shipyard was under construction two years ago and we had spoken with the owners about their plans. Turns out they did a wonderful job. The decor is so appealing and the food even better. I had the most delightful lobster wraps ever!

e 

Best lobster wraps in the Bahamas!

After lunch we walked to the Food Fair, a local grocery store and purchased the few things we needed. We said hello to some of the local "residents" along the way, and once Dad & Mom gave the "all clear", the kids came running when we called for them.

We rented a golf cart and toured the entire island including Russell Island over a bridge from Spanish Wells. Along the way we found a new beach bar (called the Sandbar) just getting off the ground. The owner, a 28 year old who had grown up there, signed up to crew on a yacht when she was fresh out of high school. She worked for 10 years traveling around the world and earned enough to purchase the land and build the bar. While we were having lunch and enjoying the view, this individual buzzed over us! Continuing the ride we discovered a new development called Palmetto Bay which had a carved waterway with boat docks. 

While moored in Spanish Wells, we had lots to look at coming and going. Many of the yachts heading over to Harbour Island hire a harbour pilot to lead them or captain them. The Devils Backbone is a bit tricky and most don't want to be bothered watching for the coral heads which line the route. We've done it three times and haven't felt the need to have assistance. The boats that we typically see with escorts are 100+ ft yachts.

Leaving Spanish Wells

Rounding the point to Devils Backbone

Oops! Here comes the fast ferry

Best to let him pass!

Once through the backbone we anchored near the center of town just off of Valentines Marina which was overflowing with megayachts. The next day we decided to take a slip at Romora Bay Marina next door - a much more peaceful place for a sailboat! They have just undergone some changes with new ownership a couple of months ago and it is apparent they are working to make it one of the best marinas in the area. We stayed two nights and rented one of their golf carts for a day to tour the island. There is a beach with fine pink sand we wanted to visit and we're glad we did. It's a beautiful beach!

Path to pink beach

Pink Beach

Romora Bay Yacht Club

After lunch at Romora Bay we anchored just south of Harbour Island Marina for a change of scenery. Oh the sights you see... Seaplanes landing, seaplanes taking off, tree delivery service and lots of boats. Never a dull moment here, so we made the decision the next day after running errands - yes, another golf cart to stock up on the fresh groceries that had come in the previous afternoon on the freight boat, to anchor just off Man Island nearby.

Seaplane arriving

Tree delivery service

Different seaplane taking off

Beautiful evening

Turns out this island is absolutely incredible! There are a couple of beaches that show up at low tide and disappear at high. There's a path to the ocean side of the island which turned out to be an incredible source of beautiful sea glass. There was an abundance every day!

Anchored off Man Island

Exploring

Hunting for sea glass

Natural waterfall

One of the Remoras camping out under our boat

"Spoon feeding"

Amazing cave

Beautiful beaches

Jeff on the beach at low tide

Perhaps a lighthouse at one time?

Cave full of sea glass

Watch out for dripping ceilings

The results of a total of about 6 hours on the beach and rocks!

We stayed anchored off that island for five nights and explored every inch of it's beauty. Our friends Jack and Carol were going to join us there yesterday but the weather didn't permit traversing the Devils Backbone. It rained all day so we decided to head back to Romora Bay Yacht Club and took the same slip we had last week and await their arrival today. It'll be great to catch up! More on that in the next post.

PS: We like shells too!